RB25DET Rebuild Diary Day 6

First of all, i did not write this. I came across someone named Larry Chen on the net from the car team group-junkies who just recently did a "minor" maintenance on his datsun 240z(260, 280, not entirely sure)with the rb25det engine. All credits goes to him. I am backing up his maintenance diary here, just in case, like all the good tutorials out there goes down.Stuffs covered in this post:

• Intake manifold install

Day 6, Installation of GReddy Intake Manifold
Remember this? My piece of cardboard with a diagram for the bolts? Well guess what? It wont be needed unless you plan on installing the stock intake manifold, otherwise for the GReddy RB25DET Intake Plenum, it comes with a whole set of bolts.

Make sure the area you're working on is free of clutter. The metal intake gasket should be changed and no seal is needed. If you don't have a new intake manifold gasket, carefully inspect it, mine was still good so I opted in using my old one.

Here is the jumbled mess of bolts that come with the manifold.

You can see from the photo that there are four different size of bolts. The four bolts that are the second shortest (two sizes from the right) will be used for the throttle body if you don't have the original throttle body bolts. You will need to use the two longer bolts and the shortest bolt for the intake plenum.

NOTE: I did this part out of order, but should be done first! Off of your old intake manifold, remove the water tube that lays on the bottom with a 12mm socket. Six bolts in plain view.

It's these guys if you're still confused.

There is a 10mm bolt that acts like a bracket for the vacuum hose (for the air regulator) on the manifold. You can remove that or just remove the hose.

It would be easy to remove these 10mm bolts after you remove the whole assembly (with water tube) from the manifold.

On the top portion of the stock intake manifold, you can remove these three 12mm bolts that house the IAA unit.

Here it is removed from the stock manifold.

On the GReddy plenum you'll see the mounting location for the IAA valve (it's on the right silly).

Just one of those pictures for you blind people.

You should clean off the gasket that was on the IAA valve and make sure it looks something like this when you're done.

Then lather up that famous RTV gasket maker.

Remember the three 10mm bolts we used to take out the IAA valve, well these should be reused. I cleaned up the threads a little with a wire wheel, but do as you please here. A little blue thread locker wont hurt.

These three bolts should be torqued to 8.4-11 N-m or 0.86-1.1 km-m

Next is the beloved water tube.

Try to clean out as much of the old gasket and rust (if present) on this part. A good brake cleaner should work.

I dolled up the underside just a little too to make it look a little newer.

You can see how cluttered it is underneath the intake manifold when it's installed. This is why I highly recommend you installing the accessories on the manifold before you install the manifold!

More clutter...

It was soo tight in there that I decided to remove the water hoses and the oil cooler.

This allowed me to free up some room.

Use the original 6 12mm bolts that held in the water tube to re-secure the tube.

Use the same gasket maker and torque all 6 bolts to 16-21 N-m or 1.6-2.1 kg-m.

As you can see from this picture, I had no problem in torque for 5 bolts, but the one bolt that was closest to the camera on the far right (by the water pipe coming from the thermostat) I couldn't get my torque wrench in there for beans. So 5 out of 6 bolts were torqued and the 6th one I pray I get lucky.

Next comes all the washers and bolts for the intake manifold. There are washers and each washer has two sides. One side should be shiny and smooth while the other is rough. The order of the bolt should be, hex bolt, the compression washer, then washer (smooth side facing the hex bolt) and rough side down towards the intake plenum).

A word to the wise, before you install, place the correct size bolts through the manifold to get an idea of where each bolt needs to go.

Place thread locker on the bolts before if you want, but this stage is up to you, I highly recommend it.

Place the manifold on the head, and hand tighten the nuts that go on the stock stud at each end of the manifold.

And the other side...


Now the weird part, torque the 13mm hex bolts down in the correct order.The bolts should be torqued to 18-22 N-m or 1.8-2.2 kg-m.The nuts at the end should be torqued down to 11-13 N-m or 1.1-1.3 kg-m.

RB25DET Rebuild Diary Day 2

First of all, i did not write this. I came across someone named Larry Chen on the net from the car team group-junkies who just recently did a "minor" maintenance on his datsun 240z(260, 280, not entirely sure)with the rb25det engine. All credits goes to him. I am backing up his maintenance diary here, just in case, like all the good tutorials out there goes down.




Stuffs covered in this post:

• Thermostat housing removal


• Intake removal


• A/C bracket removal
  

Day 2:

Alright, day 2. Here is a not so good picture of the thermostat housing. Pretty simple stuff, 3 12mm bolts.

This is a better shot of all three bolts, again 12mm bolts.

After the thermostat housing gets removed, it should look a little like this. The actual thermostat underneath is stuck in there pretty good with silicone, a few easy taps with a rubber mallet should set it free, but don't hammer it like no other if you don't plan on replacing it.
NOTE: Don't be cheap and reuse your thermostat, spend the few bucks and get a really good one, or if you have a little more money, buy a Nismo thermostat. If I'm not mistaken, the part number is for the Nismo thermostat is"21200-42L05".

Don't forget to remove this 10mm bolt that holds up the dipstick holder to the bottom of the intake plenum or you'll be like me and can't figure out why the intake wont come off.

On the rear of the intake plenum on the bottom, there's also a little 10mm bolt that holds up a bracket for the water "T" for heater hoses and a small water hose that goes to the oil cooler.

This is the general area where the rear bracket is and a few more things.

On the very back of the motor there is a water cooler line for the turbo. Don't forget to at least pull off the hose to give you some clearance.

Underneath the plenum near the auxiliary air valve there is a bracket that is held up with a 10mm bolt that frees the water lines. There's actually two and this is the one towards the front of the engine.

The other 10mm bolt is more towards the rear, remove that and make sure your heater/coolant lines are free of the plenum.

The A/C bracket I will remove at this time too. I really have no need for this part since I really have no A/C. Scrap it. You will need to remove the 4 large 12mm bolts in order to free the bracket. A breaker bar could be helpful here.

NOTE: A good breaker bar I like to use is an old shock insert. A lot of time the OEM Nissan ones like the Maximas have shock inserts and when you remove them, just knock out the ends and you have a nice decent length breaker bar.

I always put back the bolts I remove back into place just as a force of habit. I used to throw them into a box but oh did I learn from my mistakes.

After everything is clear and free of the manifold, I removed 11 bolts for the manifold with a 12mm socket, and kept the two nuts on the studs at the end. A lot of the bolts are hard to remove, so it would be nice to have an extension bar and a universal joint to get those hard angles. Sometimes I would have to wiggle in the socket between the runners.
A good idea is to put the bolts you remove into a piece of cardboard in the order that you removed them. I'll take a photo of this tomorrow.I wanted to keep the nuts to secure the manifold just incase it fell, or even worse, if the manifold moves around on the stud it could grind/strip the threads.

Plug up all the water and air inlets with a cloth or something so that nothing can get into the motor. Tape also works here too but this way is a lot cleaner and easier for me.

Just incase put back on the nuts so you don't lose them or the washers. This will help me remember where things go when I put the GReddy plenum on.

Here is the other nut I put back on in the front of the engine. I also replaced the 3 12mm bolts for the thermostat housing.

Here is an idea of the jumbled mess the water lines are. Not only is labeling helpful, but a picture also comes in handy when you're trying to put all that crap back together.
Stay tuned for day 3.

RB25DET Rebuild Diary Day 1: Taking off the crossover pipe

First of all, i did not write this. I came across someone named Larry Chen on the net from the car team group junkies who just recently did a "minor" maintenance on his datsun 240z(260, 280, not entirely sure)with the rb25det engine. All credits goes to him. I am backing up his maintenance diary here, just in case, like all the good tutorials out there goes down.



Day 1: Removal of crossover pipe for RB25DET engine.




Day 1.
The first shot of the motor on the stand, nothing new to see here.

Another view from the front before I start ripping it up

This is the crossover pipe. Two 10mm bolts have to be removed from the elbow pipe to allow for it to be removed. The bolts lay on the left side of the engine bay [on the turbo side] near the top of the valve cover. Doesn't take Sherlock Holmes to find the two bolts.

Next comes removal of the recirculation valve. You don't really need to remove it, but I wanted to see what was underneath it. Two 12mm bolts need to be removed. A vacuum line which goes to the intake plenum, and the other recirculation air hose also needs to be removed.

I labeled the vacuum line that goes from the recirculation valve to the intake plenum just in case. I just remembered that I was going to use the GReddy plenum but it's always nice to label things.

This is what it looks like when you remove the recirculation on the crossover pipe. No big deal, I will re-attach the recirculation valve for storage so I could remember what goes there.

With the bolts free and all the hoses removed, I was able to pull the crossover pipe to take a peek at the throttle plate.

Straighter shot of the same thing. I forgot to take a picture with the measurements next to it so I will do this later, but for the most part the inside looks really clean.

So on the other side, I removed all of the plugs and labeled those also. The grey plugs at the bottom of the photo was for the injectors [top grey plug] and the bottom grey plug is for the water temp and other. Don't forget to remove the CAS plug, and other stuff too.

This is the rear end of the plenum. Just a few clips and such, but I removed them to remove my harness. Now I can get access to a lot of the plenum/manifold bolts, but I should label and remove the hoses that are underneath.