There was a lack of update on this site as the new president of my company has forced a global restructuring of the multi national corporation. This probably meant that alot of the workforce will have to be laid off sometime at the final quarter of the year. Alot of time has been spent on updating my CV to justify my existance in the company.
Anyways, here is day 8 of the build. Stuffs covered in this post:
First of all, i did not write this. I came across someone named Larry Chen on the net from the car team group-junkies who just recently did a "minor" maintenance on his datsun 240z(260, 280, not entirely sure)with the rb25det engine. All credits goes to him. I am backing up his maintenance diary here, just in case, like all the good tutorials out there goes down.Stuffs covered in this post:
Day 4, Timing Belt, Water Pump and Oil Pump Removal.I'm glad this picture is of a RB motor, because VG motors are nightmares compared to this.
I used a paint marker [green] to mark the timing on the intake cam. Do this in a way that you can remember where the belt goes in what position.
Repeat the same with the exhaust side.
Just in case, I marked the bottom crank sprocket and the idler and tensioner. Remove the idler pulley with a 14mm socket and the tensioner with a 16mm socket.The cam gear should slide off with finger strength, if not use a gear puller but be careful to not damage the teeth on the pulley.
Now that both pulleys are off, you will need to grab a 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm socket to remove the water pump.
There are four 14mm bolts that can be seen from this angle, remember the top two will also need to hold in the alternator.
I am glad that I am changing out my water pump because this was the scene as soon as I took off the pump. Water that was left in the motor and sitting there caused some corrosion.
This is what the stock water pump looked like. YUK!
Popped off the thermostat and found this...almost like something had died in there, but most of that is removable.
Cleaned it up a little bit, got a little more to go. I used a dremmel, sand paper, and a wire brush to remove this.
Same here, air hose and more sanding, scrubbing will make it better.
It's not as bad here in the channel in the block since it was higher [meaning the water went to the lower spot which was the lower portion of the water pump.]
More cleaning, looking better.
Alright, I love Nissan OEM. This is the N1 Water Pump. If you can't read the part number, it is "21010-24U27". Contact Bruce Titus Nissan in Tacoma Washington, and ask for Shea if you need the hookups.
The comparison of both water pumps side by side.
I don't know if you can see it here, but the wheel that is turned for water is a big larger, has 6 large paddles versus 8 smaller paddles.
Very smart idea to inspect everything you possibly can before you do a swap. Here is a reason why.
With the belt off, you could slide the crank sprocket off.
Don't worry about the timing marks, because the gear can only go back in one way [unless you reverse it].
Oil pump is next. There are 10mm bolts so grab a breaker bar because it can get a bit tough.
Just like my habit, I placed all the bolts of the water pump in the spot they came from. Put this aside for reference with the new water pump.
After removing the oil pan and the bolts from the oil pump, the water pump should come out with some light taps with a plastic/rubber mallet.
First of all, i did not write this. I came across someone named Larry Chen on the net from the car team group-junkies who just recently did a "minor" maintenance on his datsun 240z(260, 280, not entirely sure)with the rb25det engine. All credits goes to him. I am backing up his maintenance diary here, just in case, like all the good tutorials out there goes down.
Stuffs covered in this post:
Day 2:
Alright, day 2. Here is a not so good picture of the thermostat housing. Pretty simple stuff, 3 12mm bolts.
This is a better shot of all three bolts, again 12mm bolts.
After the thermostat housing gets removed, it should look a little like this. The actual thermostat underneath is stuck in there pretty good with silicone, a few easy taps with a rubber mallet should set it free, but don't hammer it like no other if you don't plan on replacing it.
Don't forget to remove this 10mm bolt that holds up the dipstick holder to the bottom of the intake plenum or you'll be like me and can't figure out why the intake wont come off.
On the rear of the intake plenum on the bottom, there's also a little 10mm bolt that holds up a bracket for the water "T" for heater hoses and a small water hose that goes to the oil cooler.
This is the general area where the rear bracket is and a few more things.
On the very back of the motor there is a water cooler line for the turbo. Don't forget to at least pull off the hose to give you some clearance.
Underneath the plenum near the auxiliary air valve there is a bracket that is held up with a 10mm bolt that frees the water lines. There's actually two and this is the one towards the front of the engine.
The other 10mm bolt is more towards the rear, remove that and make sure your heater/coolant lines are free of the plenum.
The A/C bracket I will remove at this time too. I really have no need for this part since I really have no A/C. Scrap it. You will need to remove the 4 large 12mm bolts in order to free the bracket. A breaker bar could be helpful here.
After everything is clear and free of the manifold, I removed 11 bolts for the manifold with a 12mm socket, and kept the two nuts on the studs at the end. A lot of the bolts are hard to remove, so it would be nice to have an extension bar and a universal joint to get those hard angles. Sometimes I would have to wiggle in the socket between the runners.
Plug up all the water and air inlets with a cloth or something so that nothing can get into the motor. Tape also works here too but this way is a lot cleaner and easier for me.
Just incase put back on the nuts so you don't lose them or the washers. This will help me remember where things go when I put the GReddy plenum on.
