Stuffs covered in day 9:
- Spark plugs
- Flywheel install
- Clutch Install
- Transmission Install
- Mounting the motor
Day 9 - Spark Plugs, Clutch, Drop In. Alrighty! Guess which one is newer than the other? Can you believe that someone (maybe even Nissan) put Autolites in this thing!? Don't worry, that problem was fixed really fast!NGK Part Number "PFR5G-11" or stock number "2647". These part numbers were from the NGK site in Japan and crossed referenced on the NGK USA site.
First you're going to have to remove some of the vacuum/oil blow by tubes. After, remove the spark plug cover with a 4.5mm allen wrench.
Just a nice view of the intake plenum, no big deal.
With the cover removed
This is what it looks like exposed.
INTERMISSION - One day these two will unite! (Maybe today or tommorow!)
Remove all six plugs from the coil packs
Then remove the wiring harness for the coil packs. This is what it should look like, you might need to remove a a few 7mm bolts that hold in the ground wires.
Each coil pack has two 7mm bolts holding it in, just remove these and keep in a safe place. These suckers are tiny!
Coil packs are tiny and pretty compact, well designed. If I had the money, I would have upgraded to Splitfires. Notice how the offset of the spark boot is. The coils can only be installed one way so it is hard to mess this up. I suggest you do one cylinder at a time when reinstalling.
Remember those spark plug sockets that came in those million piece Sears tool sets, well, now would be a great time to go find it!
Creepy, but not bad at all.
Another view of the old plug.
Now replace all the plugs。Installation ：
1) Install and torque all 6 spark plugs (with a tiny bit of anti-seize)
2) Install the coil packs and torque them down
3) Reconnect the 6 plugs for the coil packs
4) Connect the ground wires to the cam cover with the 7mm bolts.
5) Install spark plug cover
Next the motor comes up off of the engine stand
Another angle. (Picture already has flywheel, but will be removed since the inspection plate and bolts have not been torqued down)
NOTE! I left the motor attached to the cherry picker for insurance so the motor wont slip and fall!
I'm getting excited for this thing to get in!
I put the motor down on a milk crate covered with a thick cloth as to not damage the paint on the oil pan.
First then put on the plate.
Put your flywheel back on. It can only go on one way since there is a little dowel or pin that lines up the flywheel. Torque these 6 to 142-154 N-m or {4.7-5.3 kg-m}.
Before you torque down the flywheel bolts, I used a socket and a breaker bar to prevent the crank from rotating while tightening the flywheel. NOTE The breaker bar should be on the other side, so rotate the socket so the handle is on the side where the alternator is (this will prevent it from spinning)
Okay, this is the ACT Street Kit for the Z32 N/A 240mm disc. Apparently this is also the same disc as the Datsun 240mm's just with a different pressure plate.
Part Number "NX6-HDSS" Z32 N/A Clutch Kit
"NX1-HDSS" for the 225mm Datsun Flywheel
"NX2-HDSS" for the 240mm Datsun Flywheel
I decided to buy 9 new bolts for the clutch grade 10.9 to be on the safe side.
I believe these are M8x1.25 x 20mm. Don't quote me on that.
The clutch if you can see, has this purple hue to it.
If you look closely, that little wing emblem has a "DK" on it, which should represent Daikin Klutch. If you still haven't gotten my message, it's an Exedy Clutch! ACT gets a lot of their clutch discs supplied from Exedy.
Use that handy dandy clutch alignment tool
Pressure plate, drop this bad boy on. It can really only go on one way. Torque these 9 bolts in a triangular star pattern.
Okay, the release bearing that comes with the clutch kit make a note of this.
NOTE - The part with the letters, actually face inwards when pressed onto the clutch collar. It is very easy to forget this and install the bearing backwards!
Now install the clutch collar into the transmission (Sorry I forgot to take pictures of this step). But if you have done any kind of Nissan transmission before, this step is really easy.
I used a luggage dolly with wheels to help me guide the transmission onto the block. Use anything you have or an extra hand would be nice. I managed to do this by myself with the wheels on the dolly.
The transmission only requires 4 bolts. Again I used some 10.9 grade hardware here.
I believe these are M10x1.5 x60mm. I know the length is right, but check the threadpitch.
Carefully guide the transmission in, and torque these four bolts down. (Sorry, getting sloppy on my photos again).
You should be able to have something that looks like this after you bolt the transmission up. Next comes the extra support brackets.
The left side mount uses two M10x1.25 bolts to the block, and two M10x1.5 x35mm for the bottom of the transmission. NOTE - If you have an RB26DETT, you will not be able to use these brackets.
Same thing with these guys, torque them down. The two bottom bolts of the bracket, one uses a nut and bolt, and the other is just a bolt.
Do you see the four bolts for the two brackets? The one on the far left (right side of the engine) is a nut/bolt while the three other new bolts on the bottom to the right are bolts.
Yeah yea yea, I'm missing a starter. It's in a box somewhere. I'll put this on later when the motor is in the car.
By now the motor should be bolted together with the transmission and everything should have been tightened. To make the install easy, remove the shifter.
Be careful not to misplace that spring right there in the middle, it's hard to see in this picture, but it's right below the top middle bolt hole.
Have a friend or two to help you guide the motor in. One of those engine balancers are great so you can angle the motor up or down!
This is how it sits now.
The left side motor mount.
Right side motor mount.
Firewall clearance.
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